Salt + Smoke
St. Louis barbeque normally leads with pork. Here is an exception: The brisket sandwich at Salt + Smoke is superb. This isn’t your run-of- the-mill ‘que joint. The sides are thoughtful (a cheddar-bacon popover?), and there are craft beers and a cocktail menu. The beef is as tender as butter, and the sandwich wears a smear of mayonnaise flavored with burnt ends. For crunch and panache, they toss on a handful of tobacco onions, thin shreds that are deep-fried. There are lots of other good options from the smoker: chicken wings, trout and smoked tomatoes on a sandwich and a cheddar-jalapeno bologna (an American take on mortadella sausage) sandwich with chow-chow relish (a tart, chopped vegetable mix) are all notable. Of course, there are the traditional barbecue meats, like pork and chicken. Plus falafel so the vegetarians aren’t left out of the fun. Like many barbeque spots, they close when they run out of food. But here, that tends to be fairly late in the evening.
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