Barbacoa, Mexico's version of barbecue, is mutton (sometimes goat, but here the former) wrapped in the leaves of the maguey plant - the same used to make mezcal. The meat is grilled in a pit over mesquite coals. The meat stays tender and smoky while the rich broth is saved and served as a side dish. This legendary and enormous roadside establishment, located between San Juan del Rio and Querétaro, attracts day-trippers all the way from Mexico City. Sheep, raised on a nearby farm, are butchered and cooked on site. Tortillas are hand-made, as are an array of spiky salsas. Barbacoa is ordered by weight. Start with 1/4 kilo for two - and take it from there.